The capital of BCS, La Paz, is a sprawling town on the center of the eastern coast that mixes adventure tourism with a local beat. We stayed a fair distance outside the main boardwalk area, known as the Malecon, which is clogged with touristy restaurants. Our unassuming neighborhood boasted tiny taco, ceviche, and fresh juice stands that had unpredictable hours and reliably tasty offerings.
I’ve made this crossing numerous times, both on foot and by bicycle, in an attempt to get to know some of the peninsula’s beaches, party towns, deserts, scuba diving spots, and steamy hot springs. I’ve also camped at half a dozen campgrounds, under some of the darkest and most star-spangled skies you can imagine.
Baja California Sur is ideally explored with your own set of wheels. As I planned the trip, I imagined myself taking in the freedom of the road and driving with open windows in search of hidden trails, hot springs, small coastal towns, and roadside taco stands.
We specifically came in January to experience the whale shark migration in the Sea of Cortez. Each morning, the boat companies put in a bid for time slots to bring visitors to swim with the whale sharks. At 10am we met our boat captain and pulled away from the dock aboard a white speed boat. After about half an hour cruising the cerulean waves, our guide spotted the first shark, and we quickly donned our snorkels and fins and jumped into the water.
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Todos Santos is best savored with a view. As the sun beat down on my shoulders, I followed the Sugar Port Trail up a meandering path to Punta Lobos. After a couple of miles, I arrived at a flat overlook, with crashing blue waves below.
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To be transparent, I much preferred my whale shark experience in Mozambique, where it felt more organic. In Baja, there are a fair number of boats in the water at once, all of them competing for space to swim with the whale sharks.
Baja California (the more northern state) currently has a level 3 rating, warning travelers to “reconsider travel due to crime and kidnapping”. In a seemingly random incident in early May 2024, three tourists were murdered in a carjacking gone wrong on a remote beach near Ensenada.
While Cabo has a reputation for high-end resorts and endless nightlife, La Paz (about two hours north of Cabo) is better known for outdoor adventures like scuba diving and sea kayaking. Both areas are considered safe and consistently hold a level 2 travel advisory (“exercise increased caution”). The biggest concerns here tend to be theft and pickpocketing.
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Drive in every direction from BCS’s main starting point and you’ll stumble across desert mountains and cacti-dotted canyons, dusty towns steeped in history, and wide, wind-swept beaches. Thrill seekers will find a variety of outdoor adventures while foodies can indulge in an endless slew of street side taco and ceviche stands.
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